Rich Kopp Photography

Posts Tagged ‘camera’

Canon has launched two new software updates for the Canon 7D and Canon 550D. Each update corrects various dysfunctions appreciated the performance of the respective models.

The updated camera software is simple to perform and are also well documented in the instructions that come with downloading the software itself. One of the main precautions to take before proceeding with the upgrade is that the camera has installed a fully charged battery to prevent it can be finished in mid-process and let the camera “hanging”, which would force us to take it to service.

The most important thing is your power a flash light and if the new HVL-F43AM Sony guide number (GN) amounts to 43 (105mm lens, ISO 100) which places it as a powerful instrument, without reach the limit of other models.

The flash output level can be changed in 22 increments, from 1 / 1 to 1 / 128 in steps of 1 / 3. This output is complemented by a fast recycle time, roughly about 2.9 seconds.

This flash retrieves a feature that was present for decades, for example, Metz flashes and missed the path of development in many brands, but Sony had already recovered. I’m talking about the possibility to rotate the flash head to make it horizontal or vertical regardless of the frame of the camera is positioned in portrait or landscape. This feature may seem superfluous, adds versatility to the possibilities of bounce and shadows can also get consistent regardless of the position of the camera.

Another brilliant feature of this new compact Sony is the wireless radio control that lets you select the proportions of light emission of up to three separate flash units (the wireless radio control is only available when using the DSLR-A900, DSLR-A850 or DSLR-A700). As this is not an infrared connection, its reliability is much higher and allows the creation of sophisticated lighting effects from various sources, without using additional equipment connection.

Finally, the list of outstanding features worth mentioning that the HVL-F43AM is equipped with a rugged dust and moisture.

Measurement system is the most complex of the three, and that works well in 90% of situations. In fact, it is likely that the setting to bring your camera by default.

What makes this measurement method is through a rather complex array of points, collect the different light values ​​for each of these points.

For each collection takes assigned a weight, and from these values ​​and those weights calculate the exposure value of the final light.

When using each method of measurement?
Well, that’s a very good question. As I said, in most cases, the metering will work just fine.

When you do something worse in situations of strong backlighting. In these cases, understanding that we have no additional light source such as a flash, we have to choose what we want to come out correctly exposed, if the background or the object before us. And that’s where the weighted and spot metering will allow us to measure the light more effectively.

With this method, also known as center-weighted, which makes balancing the camera is more measured values. Gives more weight to the light measured at the center (system time), but also takes into account the values ​​collected from the outer to the inner surface.

For reference, my camera takes 75% of final value of the central region, while the remaining 25% takes it out.

The fundamental difference on the method of measurement is central to this mode if you consider that the light that reaches the entire surface of the sensor, but has a greater weight in calculating the light of the central area.

We could say that this is a spot meter that is included in the margin of error (for good).

What makes the camera to measure the amount of light falling on a very small region of the sensor. Coincides roughly with the square usually indicates the focus on the sensor, but only approximately.

The surface is measured depends on the particular model of camera. In my Nikon d80, according to the manufacturer itself, only takes into account an area of ​​3.5 mm when measuring light. These data, as I say, will depend on the model itself, and in any case are indicative. You just have to stay that is the method that allows greater control for accuracy of measurement of light.

Importantly, only makes the measurement of light over the area, eliminating any value of light in the rest of the sensor.

But beware. This does not mean or anything like that is the best. In fact, it is usually the worst if we are not careful.

This system is normally used (or used) professionals to measure the light when they have time and knowledge of your computer to make pictures.

Digital photography tutorial that shows the essential tools necessary to make the best shots.

The material is a key concept in photography. Although having good tools does not imply that get great pictures if by magic, are often decisive for quality snapshots. Although the photographic material is expensive, indispensable tools are relatively inexpensive. However, it is important to know in advance that you will use the camera to acquire the most appropriate.

Basic material in photography: the camera
There are many types of cameras and it is often difficult to know what is best. From the compact, the possibilities are reduced to the level SLR with all kinds of parameters and interchangeable lenses. Compact cameras are sufficient for use in travel or family time, but are not suitable for taking pictures more seriously.

For starters, you can use the low-end SLR cameras, which are less expensive and give good results, as the 400D from Canon. These cameras can learn the basics of photography before moving on to more advanced models.

Before buying a camera, it is essential to consider the use that will give you and if you are willing to learn to get the best performance.

Photography course: books needed to learn photography
Within the material, you can also consider the theoretical material will serve to know how to use the other tools. In this sense, it is essential to have a good picture book, which go over the basics and delves into more complicated techniques, such as “step by step photography” by Michael Langford or “high quality digital photography” by José María Mellado .

Protect your camera, filters and bags
It is essential to protect photographic equipment. Although it may seem obvious, it is important to have a case to keep the camera. In case of carrying several items, such as lenses or flash, the bag must be prepared for no contact between them and so are not spoiled.

For most professional teams can be used as a backpack cover, which will facilitate transportation, or a strap around the waist for those who need to change lenses quickly.

The filters are also essential in SLRs. To protect the lens is often used UV filter or UV, which has virtually no impact on photography, but that prevents the lens from being damaged by scratches or bumps.

Material parts for cameras, cards and batteries
For those who never want to lose the opportunity to take a picture, it is essential that between the material parts are for cards and batteries. Every camera comes with its own battery, but is often not sufficient for a full day of intensive use. It is therefore advisable to always have a spare battery recharged, but will have to check before your purchase is compatible with the camera model.

More often the battery is usually depleted memory card, especially if they have limited capacity. It is therefore important to buy a replacement card and get a lead with a good capacity, especially if you take pictures in RAW format.

Another fundamental photographic equipment
There is an accessory that may lack any photographer who works in low light or want to play with the possibilities that the shutter speed, tripod. This element, which keeps the camera steady while the picture is comprised of three feet and are usually made of some lightweight metal. It is better to buy a small and not too heavy, otherwise they will be very heavy transport.

There are some other important stuff, but not necessary, as external flashes. They are very useful for portraits in low light or to correct the harsh light of midday hours, but it is probably the least important of the above materials.

Once you have some knowledge of photography can also buy new targets as those sold by the camera body are usually quite limited.

To take good pictures you need more than just a camera. The basic material is relatively inexpensive and can improve the pictures and have the camera always ready to pull the trigger.

Why so many photos are blurred or are noisy. The screen of the camera after taking the photo, it looks good, but enlarge it on the computer the result is not expected …

It is very common and usually occurs for two reasons: high and low speed ISO exposure.

Under the first, if you place the camera (depending on model) in some kind of program, it automatically chooses the ISO. The problem is that the more turn up the ISO have more noise. Some people say that your camera does not generate noise up to ISO 400, but it is not. Sure, the display of the camera can not be seen, but if we extend the image to “actual pixels” in Photoshop you will see the noise. Therefore, the first step is to make pictures, when we can (and do not want the noise) with the lowest ISO possible.

Another important point is, whenever possible, taking pictures with a tripod, especially if the exposure time will be less than (about) 1 / 125. According to the pulse of each this speed may be slower, but much less be noticed, certainly not in the camera’s LCD but by extending it into the computer.

Of course, everything depends on who you want to give each picture. If you only want a small size, a bit of noise, motion blur or may not be important.

I think like most that we once the bug bit me in the photograph and looking at the website with the famous question “what camera to buy?” I fell here and since then have failed to linger.

Like any rookie I’m always looking for techniques, methods, new ideas and seeking to supplement what I am learning all of these great articles and the experiences of friends on the forum. Tutorials do not know yet but I keep trying because I like to share everything I read and see.

What I have is certainly not new and should have several techniques to achieve the same or better result, this is what I know and I think it has many uses in addition it would basically capture water in motion, at any time and with the equipment available. The idea seemed good to those who do not have a professional team or maybe at that moment does not have the appropriate and does not want to lose sight of a photo with silk effect.

What Items Do I Need?
Absolutely nothing … a camera of course … do not need special camera and tripod or filters. You just have to have the appropriate post-processing tool. Photoshop is the one I know but any program that operates in layers can be solved easily.

How Do You Make the Catch?
The camera settings should be the normal speed, aperture and ISO according to an image within the parameters of light you have, if you have low light, apply the same technique to that used in case of a portrait, even if you need flash, so you can activate.

Next step, very pulse and trying to keep the same position to take a 10 or 12 continuous photos, of course if you forget the detail tripod and shoot as you please, I have done with 10 photos and I like the result

The Processing
Now comes the work in Photoshop.

Upload all the pictures and choose which you like to be the bottom layer, the remaining groups simply by selecting and dragging them to stay in successive layers (Layer 1 Layer …… 10) inside the main project and you can go others removed so that only the primary with 10 photos inside and in the different layers.

All layers are selected and the next step is Edit / Auto-Align Layers, as shown in the picture.

This is no excuse when you have a show where the silk would be amazing effect and not having the right equipment.